Here are some cosy winter warmers for keeping your feet toasty around the house. These crocheted socks are made toe-up with 4ply sock yarn in continuous rounds, except for the heel, which is worked in rows. I’ve used Drops Fabel because I’ve found this Drops yarn to be soft, warm and easy to work with, but any wool rich 4ply sock yarn will do. (I’m not affiliated with this brand, I just like it.)
This pattern should fit UK sizes 4-6. The handy thing about making a sock toe-up is that you can measure as you go, so you can add a few rows to the foot or ankle if needed. However, larger sizes or wider feet may also need more stitches in the round and consequently a much more involved change to the pattern. Making socks for lots of different people has taught me that feet come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, from high arches to sticky-out heels, so measuring as you go is the surest way of getting a good fit.
If you’d prefer a looser fit for these socks, the simplest way is to use a 4mm rather than a 3mm hook. I’ve made similar socks with a 4mm hook and it works fine. (Gauge will be different, obviously.) The ankle should stick slightly on the heel when pulling on – that helps to keep the socks up.
NB: UK Stitch Names.
50g Drops Fabel Rust (110)
50g Drops Fabel Blue (107)
50g Drops Fabel Off-White (100)
3 mm crochet hook
Large blunt needle for finishing and sewing in ends.
Stitch markers, small safety pins. (You can use the safety pins as stitch markers if you like.)
Optional thread elastic for inside the cuff.
Stitches and Techniques You Will Need
Double crochet (dc)
Decreasing (3dc together=3dctog)
Crocheting in the round and in a row
Waistcoat stitch (ws)*
Front and back post half trebles (fp-htr, bp-htr) to form a ribbed cuff
Stranded colour work
*Waistcoat stitch is a non-standard stitch that is initially established by working into the centre of the ‘v’ of a dc stitch. It makes for a cleaner colour work pattern than dc stitches as the ws stack on top of each other. However, it’s not as flexible, so it’s not great for making a whole sock. There are a lot of good tutorials available online for this stitch.
The majority of the sock is made with simple double crochet stitches. The gauge for the dc parts is 22 stitches by 26 rows per 10cm square.
These socks are odd. As per the photograph, make one sock with a blue toe, heel and cuff and a rust foot and ankle, and the other with a rust toe, heel and cuff and a blue foot and ankle. I’ll detail the blue toe sock. Simply switch the rust and blue yarns for the reverse sock. Both use off-white for the snowflake design on the ankle.
Begin with blue yarn.
Foundation: 8dc into a magic circle. (8)
Round 1: 2dc into each stitch. (16)
Round 2: 1dc in first stitch, 2dc in next. Repeat for round. (24)
Round 3: 1dc in each stitch. (24)
Round 4: 1dc in first stitch, 2dc in next. Repeat for round. (36)
Round 5: 1 dc in each stitch. (36)
Rounds 6 and 7: Repeat round 5. (36)
Round 8: 1dc in the first two stitches, 2dc into the next. Repeat for round. (48)
Rounds 9-14: 1dc in each stitch. (48)
NB: Maintain 48 stitches for all rounds from this point on until the end of the sock.
Change yarn to rust. 1dc in each stitch. (48)
Repeat for a total of 33 rounds. (Or more, if needed.)
Crochet a partial round of 36 stitches with the same yarn (rust) . Secure this yarn colour with a small safety pin. You’ll need to return to this when you’ve finished the heel. Count 24 stitches and leave another safety pin or stitch marker. This will be the heel section.
This heel is not difficult to do, but it’s fiddly to explain. It’s made with 24 rows running perpendicular to the 24 stitches you’ve marked out, increasing, maintaining for a few rows and then decreasing to create the heel section. You attach the heel to the foot of the sock as you go, which is what makes it fiddly to explain, but actually saves time. The pattern of increasing and decreasing should become clear as you go.
As above, you should have a 24 stitch section marked out of the last round of the foot. This will be at the bottom of the sock. The joining-on colour jump from the toe to foot sections should correspond with the bottom-middle of the sock. Start crocheting into the rust stitch following the safety pin holding your loose yarn.
Row 1: Fasten on blue yarn. Ch 1.
Row 2: 1dc into the next rust stitch. Turn. 3dc into ch of row 1. (Only time the chain counts as a stitch.) Turn.
Row 3: 1 turning ch (not a stitch), 1dc into first blue stitch (be sure to go into the closest stitch), 3dc in next blue st, 1dc in next blue st, 1 dc in next rust st.
Row 4: 1dc in next rust st, turn. (Note the turn happens after the first stitch of this row.) Skip nearest stitch and what looks like the next blue st. This is really the parallel final stitch from the previous row. 1dc in next two stitches, 3dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next two. Turn.
Row 5: 1ch, 1dc into next 3 stitches, 3dc into next st, dc into next 3 stitches, dc into next rust st.
Row 6: 1dc into next rust stitch. Turn. (Skip nearest and next blue st). 1dc into next 4 blue stitches, 3dc into next st, 1dc into next 4 stitches. Turn.
Row 7: 1ch, 1dc in next 5 stitches, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next 5 stitches, 1dc in next rust st.
Row 8: 1dc in next rust st. Turn. (Skip nearest and next blue st.) 1dc into next 6 blue stitches, 3dc into next stitch, 1dc into next 6 stitches. Turn.
Row 9: 1ch, 1dc into the next 15 blue stitches, 1dc into next rust st.
Row 10: 1dc into next rust st. Turn. (Skip nearest and next blue st.) 1dc into next 15 blue stitches. Turn.
Row 11: Repeat 9.
Row 12: Repeat 10.
Row 13: Repeat 9.
Row 14: Repeat 10.
Row 15: Repeat 9.
Row 16: Repeat 10.
Row 17: Repeat 9.
NB: At this point, there should be 7 rust stitches remaining in the section marked out.
Row 18: 1dc in next rust st. Turn. (Skip nearest and next blue st.) 1dc in next 6 blue stitches, 3dctog, 1 dc in next 6 stitches. Turn.
Row 19: 1ch, 1dc in next 5 stitches, 3dctog, 1dc in next 5 stitches, 1dc in next rust st.
Row 20: 1dc in next rust st. Turn. (Skip nearest and next blue st.) 1dc in next 4 stitches, 3dctog, 1dc in next 4 stitches. Turn.
Row 21: 1ch, 1dc in next 3 stitches, 3dctog, 1dc in next 3 stitches. 1dc in next rust st.
Row 22: 1dc in next rust st. Turn. (Skip nearest and next blue st.) 1dc in next 2 stitches, 3dctog, 1 dc in next 2 stitches. Turn.
Row 23: 1ch, 1 dc in next stitch, 3dctog, 1dc in next st. 1dc in next rust st.
Row 24: 1dc in next rust st, turn. (skip nearest and next blue st) 3dctog (all blue stitches remaining). Fasten off blue yarn.
End of heel.
Return to rust yarn you fastened with a safety pin earlier, unpin the loose end and resume crocheting with this yarn in the round.
Round 1: 1dc in each stitch all around the blue heel section and the other half with the rust stitches. This will secure the heel section in place and begin the ankle section. NB: There should still be 48 stitches in total. You rounds will begin at the side of the sock now, not the bottom as before. You may want to put a stitch marker in the first stitch to remind yourself where the rounds now begin.
(Note for second sock: if you want the second sock to be the mirror of the first, so you can wear the slight joining jump inside your ankle, add an additional 24 dc stitches in a half round and start the rest of the rounds at this point.)
Round 2-6: 1dc in each stitch.
Rounds 7-18: At this point, you need to switch to waistcoat stitch and begin following the stitch chart for the next 12 rounds. (NB: chart shows pattern in both rust and blue sections, but you only need to do one section for each sock.) You need to add in the off-white yarn, but also keep the rust yarn. Be careful not to pull it too tight or be tempted to work in all the floats at the back as this will make the ankle too small and inflexible to pull over the foot. There should still be 48 stitches.
Rounds 19: (Should be back in rust yarn.) 1ws in each stitch for 48 stitches. (These last rounds can be done in either dc or ws, whichever you prefer.)
Round 20-21: repeat 18.
Switch to alternating front and back post half treble stitches for this section.
Round 20: 1 htr in each stitch.(48)
Round 21 to 23: 1 fp-htr in first stitch, 1 bp-htr in next. Alternate to end of round to create a ribbed texture. (48)
Fasten off. Work in loose ends inside the sock with a large blunt needle. You can sew a couple of strands if thread elastic into the back of the ribbed section if you like, to keep the cuff from sagging, though you may not need to. Your sock is complete. Now do it all again with the colours reversed!